Sunday, September 24, 2006

Raymonda and a September Sunday in Melbourne

The Australian Ballet’s Grand Opening of Raymonda was the highlight of the week. It’s the big ballet of the year for the company – a mammoth new production choreographed by Resident Choreographer Stephen Baynes, a really talented guy. Like him, it’s intelligent and sophisticatedly restrained – I was going to say beautiful, which the ballet certainly is, but not sure how he’d feel about it referring to himself!
There are some glorious moments and the sets and costumes are to die for – sublime eye candy. Beautiful choreography, a strong narrative and defined characters – Serenely gorgeous Star, a dashing contemporary Rat Pack, simpering Hollywood Starlet, overbearing Impresario, ultra dignified King and Queen and of course, a handsome Prince.
Baynes has transformed the traditional Russian story into a 1950’s Hollywood version – the story of a film star on the eve of her marriage into a European Royal Family. As one of the critics mentioned, they could have renamed the ballet Grace. It’s a glorious night in the theatre – lots of luscious, swirling dancing, sublime music of Glazunov, beautiful dancers in top form. There’s an evocative bar sequence straight out of Cocktail with a couple of Tom Cruise bartenders highkicking the house down, on the sexy scarlet bar…. as AB Artistic Director David McAllister said at the party after the show, “I can’t wait to visit that bar!”
And I can’t wait to see this lavish new Raymonda again – which I will be lucky enough to do next week with a dance critic friend from Sydney – and a different cast. So much talent in this company and if you’re a dance groupie like me, you’ve never seen enough!

I see in today’s paper that Jamie Oliver’s new restaurant, which is about to open Fifteen Melbourne, is charging a $50 deposit on bookings! Evidently it is already booked out until January!

Sunday Brunch at The European in the city, on a wind-swept rainy day, with the narrow, extremely European restaurant choc-a-block with chatting couples clutching shopping bags, groups getting together for weekend catch-ups, singles – all appearing very happy with their environment. The place has very friendly, well patronised- feel. Many of the diners are clearly regulars. I notice a well-known politician, former leader of the Liberal Party, looking as if he’s trying not be absorbed into the Parisian-conservative-chic dark wooden panelled and black-and–white parquet floor décor. There are bottles galore – a professional pub-like atmosphere with the focus on European wine - extensive wine lists, digestives, aperitifs, fortified wines, cabinets of it, shelves round the walls. This is an ideal place to learn about the most European of Australian cities – a great rendezvous for visitors, open all hours, seven days a week.
The long black-aproned staff are efficient and professional. I didn’t have to wait to catch the eye of my server to have my needs attended, while I savoured a glass of 2004 Cotes des Nuits and a superb Blue Swimmer Crab Omelette, garnished with salmon eggs and an excellent mixed salad of mesclun, rocket and various lettuce.
This café/restaurant/wine bar in Spring Street, opposite Parliament house, round the corner from Bourke Street, is well positioned for before or after theatre meals or to call in for a coffee and cake.


On to a concert at St Silas’s Anglican Church, Albert Park to celebrate the arrival of a new organ. Listening to a programme including Bach, Handel, Brahms, Mozart and Elgar (Pomp and Cirumstance - what else!), has to be one of the best ways to spend a wet Sunday afternoon!
One of the stage technicians I worked with at The Australian Ballet, spent his spare time on tour in other cities attending organ concerts. I wasn’t at all surprised when I learned this after his tragic death, there’s such a shared insatiable passion for culture among people who work in the arts. How lucky we/they are and us – the audience at the receiving end!

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

Another Week, Another City

September 4

Spring in Sydney and it is 27 degrees – culture shock after the lower temperatures and grey skies of Melbourne. I slow my pace on the walk from Woollahra to Bondi, stopping on the Bondi road to buy mineral water at an old style milk bar. By the time I reach Bondi itself, I’m in need of a hat and sunscreen. Luckily, they are in abundant supply – this is Sun City – Mecca to beach loving backpackers and locals the world over. The stretch of golden sand is strewn with by bronzed bodies already - at 10 am. Music is blaring, cafes buzzing.
I call in at the gallery of the Bondi Pavilion, a 1920’s building in the centre of the beach. Full cafes probably selling inflated priced indifferent coffee. I head for the local surfers and walkers small secret rendezvous, Speedo’s at the North End of the beach. It’s a little expanded since it first opened many years ago, but still delivers best coffee and bacon and egg breakfasts.

Across the beach, past the magnificently positioned Icebergs centre – exclusive restaurant and club to the stalwarts – many of years, who swim here every day of their lives, round the rocky cliffs on the exhilarating walk from Bondi to Bronte beach.
Japanese tourists are busy with cameras, converged on corners, snapping themselves against the spectacular coastline and big waves.
On the way back, I am planning my glass of Pinot Gris and fish lunch at Sean’s Panorama. Alas, they are booked out, but react to my despair and recommend North Bondi Italian Food over the road. What a find! It turns out to be the second restaurant of successful restaurateur Maurice Terzini, famed for his Caffe e Cucina in Melbourne, former fine dining Otto's (although no longer) and Icebergs in Sydney.
I relax happily into the rhythm of the bustling, denim-aproned waiters who anticipate my every need (what a bonus!), sitting staring out to sea, savouring an excellent Bellini Pinot Grigio, great bread and oil, Crumbed spinach arancini and Fried Calamari with mint and zucchini. A sassy, sizzling Sydney-style place.

Took quite an effort to face another meal at night! Also Italian! This time it’s fine dining at Buon Ricordo in Paddington, Armand Pecuoco’s institution of 25 years. It’s an old favourite of mine, but I am here to sample the changes to the cuisine by a young Roman chef - Massimo Bianchi, I met in London several years ago at his L’Altro, who later gained a reputation at Nobu, before coming to Australia, where he wowed the clientele of the Westin Hotel.
I am drooling over Massimo’s arancini – mouthfuls of perfection! Also an interesting dish – Fettini di pesce spada, of thinly sliced swordfish served with eggplant, capsicum, olive, pine nuts and sultanas. I’ll be back another night to sample more of this style of cooking. Hopefully, next time won’t be blemished by a rowdy party at the next table, which came close to sending some of our party home.

The next day is taken up with a wedding of a special friend – over the road from their house, in the grounds of St Patrick’s Seminary, Manly, with dinner in the refractory - The Grand Dining Room. The band was playing, the rain held off, the bride and groom were both radiant – a very special occasion. A day of friends and family. And they booked the venue long before Nicole Kidman!


September 12.
Another week, another city. Back in Melbourne, I’ve been on the run, Sold my apartment of 12 years – the longest I’ve lived in anywhere. Part of me is wrenched inside – the other part knows I am making the right move. Will have to decide where I want to live – which is basically several places – Melbourne, Byron Bay, Aix-en-Provence, Queenstown, Hawaii!

Moving right along. Friday night was a glorious night of dance. Dance Creation is a springboard for new choreography, instigated by the Australian Institute of Classical Dance, presided over by the Grande Dames of dance – Dame Margaret Scott, Founder of the Australian Ballet School and Marilyn Jones. The Who’s Who of the dance world were at the National Theatre in St Kilda– Garth Welch, Harry Haythorne, David McAllister, Artistic Director of The Australian Ballet, Graeme Murphy and Janet Vernon of Sydney Dance Company, Gideon Obazanek of Chunky Move was coming the following night. Gary Harris of the Royal New Zealand Ballet – in town for the company’s current Australian season of Trinity, was enthusiastically planning to participate next year.

Each artistic director was asked to nominate a choreographer. Graeme Murphy nominated Tanja Liedtke – who brought a group of dancers with her from Taipei University. Her piece – Slight was the highlight of the evening – a fluttering-hand spoof on The Sylph.

Another gem was a composition by Kate Neal Dead Horse 1 performed by her Dead Horse Band (a region in the Snowy Mountains of Australia), in a fusion of classical and jazz.
An uplifting night, observing emerging talent. And a crucial event for the artistic directors – the employers of these future stars. Funnily enough, all the choreographers and the composer were female – a coincidence?

Off to the Slow Food Festival- A Taste of Slow- Australia 2006 (Founded in Italy in 1986 as a response to the negative impact of multinational food companies) in the newly restored Abbotsford Convent, Abbotsford in a glorious green locale, amid acres of native parkland on the banks of the Yarra river. The old convent was bedecked in party finery. White tents dotted the grounds. A Honey Room was installed in a basement, a sophisticated bakery in another, a Russian baker using the original ovens. A Wine Library, Generations Room- for the sharing of inter-generational stories, Tea-tasting Room, Cheese Room.. Stephanie Alexander's Kitchen Garden and Salad Bar.. a hall was given over to Creative Vegetable Children’s Educative play. Cooking demonstrations were being conducted by top Melbourne chefs, forums held on subjects such as slow living, what;s the beef? the cost of fast food and health.

A Foodies celebration of the coming of Spring – the first of many in this emerging arts and craft complex. Fun in the Sun, with yummy things to eat and food for thought.
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