Craggy Range perfection on plate and glass followed by sunset on Waimarama Beach.

It’s a long time since I been called “Dear” as I was twice in Waimarama – once by the older Maori guy selling fruit by the side of the road; and then by the guy who served me coffee at Jark’s Café over the road… it was such a friendly gesture that I concentrated on not negatively reacting.

Waimarama had lived in my memory as having one of the most beautiful beaches in New Zealand – although there’s certainly plenty of competition in “God’s Own Country.” The province of Hawke’s Bay is one of the warmest parts of the country on the East Coast and the little town about four hours driving from the capital New Zealand city of Wellington.

Walking on the long deserted Waimarama beach at sunrise and sunset is one of the joys of life, but during the day watch out for the modern intrusion of quad bikes on the beach and tractors pulling boats. Walking round this growing-in-popularity spot, I found that almost every holiday house boasted a tractor in their yard and a massive motorboat. Such is the growth of affluence, recession or not.

Early one evening I was passed on the beach by a quad bike driven by a boy teenager pulling a small trailer of friends. He was hooning around, circling and turning to look at his friends, when a Police Van purred up behind him – a pertinent wake-up call.

I had stayed the night before at Mangapapa Petit Hotel in Havelock North – the former home of the late Tinned and Frozen Food Magnate, Sir James Wattle. Set in 50 acres of laden fruit trees, surrounded by well-kept lawns and magnificent old English trees, the property is now Japanese-owned and sports a sauna and gym, tennis court, petanque and croquet ground, plus a golf course – a charming little self-contained resort. It also boasts a Picasso in the dining room, Renoir in one of the suites and two Chagalls. A Magic Carpet lift takes you down to an impressively stocked cellar of Burgundies and local wines. The owner also has a vineyard nearby by the name of Chateau Waimarama.

My only problem in this major wine region of New Zealand was my lack of time to check them all out. However lunch on the terrace of the Terroir restaurant at Craggy Range - one of my favourites the next day, under rocky Te Mata Peak was such a magnificent experience, that I’ll be back shortly. Venison and beetroot, The Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, the attention of Sommelier Stuart and gorgeous black-aproned wait staff – Hawke’s Bay – you are a destination for hedonists and nature lovers alike.